Pathway to Nirvana

Today was my first full day in the Hindu holy city of Varanasi. This is where Hindus from all over India make a pilgrimage to be blessed by the holy water of the Ganges River and visit a temple in this magical city.

First, I went to the Golden Temple, which I think is the most amazing temple I've ever been in. It's an open air temple with white marble floors and there's water gushing everywhere flooding barefeet with flower petals and leaves and other offerings that have been washed off shrines of Vishnu and Parvati. Upon entering the main room you're pushed (there are sooo many people who have come to visit this place) through to the ultimate shrine which people are dousing with milk (cow's are holy) and flowers. You are supposed to touch the shrine (essentially Vishnu's penis) and then touch your face. As you leave your feet are covered with milk and flowers and then a kind man washes your feet with a hose.

When I left this temple, I was sure the day couldn't get any more spiritual. But as I was walking the river bank, I came to the burning ghat (where they cremate people who have died here), and was overwhelmed with emotion. You are not allowed to take pictures in this area, so all I have are words to describe what happens here. The first thing I noticed were the piles and piles of wood - piled higher than the rooftops. Then my eyes caught sight of burning wood piles in rows overlooking the Ganges. And finally I saw a body draped in gold fabric sitting atop a pile of wood. I stood there for a long while lost in a trance. There was a baby wailing and a cow groaning loudly. Otherwise just the crackling of the burning wood piles that had been left to burn long after the corpse was dirt....Then a man dressed in white approached the golden-draped body with a flame and circled a few times before lighting the pile of wood while others seemed to pay little attention. He said a few words and then just let the body burn. I cannot describe what it was like to watch a human set alight. I realize that we cremate people all the time, but I guess I thought it would be more sterile or private. The buildings surrounding this ghat looked very run down with just cement blocks and no windows or doors. I was told that this is where Hindus come to wait to die when they have no family. They just have to pay for the wood.

It is said that if you die in Varanasi then you will attain instant nirvana. I pondered nirvana as I passed this ghat and an ash flew into my mouth...