Thank you Delhi

I've spent the past week in Delhi and absolutely loved it. Even after all the research I did, I have been surprised every day. Again, I guess that's why you go to a place instead of just read about it; but the more I learn about India, the more fascinated I am.

First off, the head nod. I was under the impression that every Indian would be bobbing their heads back and forth when they walked into a room or wanted to part ways. When I arrived, two friends I had met through couch surfing claimed I had a better head nod than them - Anyone who has seen my mock nod knows it's pathetic. But they really couldn't do it!!! It was so funny watching them awkwardly wobble their heads back and forth. I'll never forget my first nod. I was walking through a park and went to a dead end on the concrete and needed to step on the beautifully manicured grass in order to get to where I needed to be, but just as I put my foot out, I spotted an officer (with a big gun) watching me with a very stern look on his face. I smiled and tried to gesture that I needed to get out of the park and there it was: a quick, fluid wobble of the head and then a flash of pearly whites.

Another of the first couple surprises was that nice, friendly Delhiites would frown or grunt after I thanked them for their kindness. When I asked a guy I met at a restaurant the reason for this, he explained that Indians don't say 'thank you'. They believe in Karma and if they do good it lifts them higher toward their heaven, but if someone thanks them for the good that they've done, then it neutralizes the good deed and cancels out their good karma. I've witnessed many times after people asking for directions and wanting to know something and I've never heard a thank you. Just that wonderful head nod or they simply speed off. That's gonna take some getting used to for me.

In general, I just can't believe how enchanting this place is. The women walking around in their gorgeous saris and the babies with black eye liner under their eyes (apparently it's good for their eyes) and the ruins at every intersection, the smiles, and the religion. Oh the religion is everywhere! One minute I'm at a mosque witnessing people washing their feet and a loud speaker is blaring chants and the next minute I'm in a shop being blessed by a boy walking by accepting offerings for some Hindu god. Right this moment a man is behind me with incense (I'm allergic), reading out of a book and praying. My nose is running, but I'm in heaven. I love how people who are so passionate and diligent with their beliefs can be tolerant of another and live in such proximity. On my way to the Baha'i House of Worship two days ago, my driver said he was Hindu, but "when I cut, what color do I bleed? A Muslim doesn't bleed yellow or blue."

As for the difficult bit about traveling, well that's been pretty predictable. The tuk tuk drivers see a single, white woman and start salivating at the potential for inflation. Getting around is not as straight forward as hailing down a cab. The other day three rickshaw drivers told me they wouldn't take me where I wanted to go. I later had a police man flag one down and realized it was because it was too close - not worth their time - but I had walked all day with a pack and still had to cross three major highways before getting to the metro station....But I knew this was all in the cards. I realize everyone wants my money, but at least Indians have a good sense of humor about it. Today, on my way from the train station in Agra to my guest house I told the driver I didn't want to go anywhere other than my guest house. He said, "Madam, Where else would I take you? Yes, some drivers do that, but we are not all bad drivers. Everyone is not the same." Although afterward he stayed in my hostel for 20 minutes trying to persuade me to hire him for the rest of the day for a ridiculous price.

Regardless, the random acts of kindness far outway the nuisances that I have encountered thus far. Thank you Delhi...I mean....See you soon...